Tuesday 11 June 2013

It Runs in the Family!

I wrote this blog post about my theatre production in Ghana about a month ago but the internet was so slow I couldn't upload it. So here it is!


One of the best experiences I've had here by far has been being part of a University of Ghana theatre production. The play is a British farce called It Runs in the Family, by Ray Cooney. It's a comedy of errors set in a doctor's common room. Dr. Morton, a rather greedy and pompous doctor, is practicing for an important speech he is to give that morning. But he keeps being interrupted by doctors, nurses, cleaning ladies, and finally Jane, a woman he had an affair with in the hospital 18 years ago. Jane is there to tell him that he has an 18 year old son who is downstairs and wants to meet him. Mayhem ensues with banging doors, cross-dressing doctors, matrons falling out windows, and run-ins with police.


The play ran for one weekend and was a huge success! We actually extended it one day because there were so many people who couldn't get in the last night. The theater is outdoors (rehearsals were also done in a courtyard outside). It was interesting to compare audiences in the US to audiences in Ghana. In my opinion, Ghanaian audiences are much more involved in the performance...audibly at least. If they don't like a character, they make it known. The audience didn't seem to like when Mrs. Morton asked questions. They thought she was too nosy. So every time she spoke a line, the audience let out a simultaneous "AAAaayyyy." 


The rehearsal process was similar to student directed production rehearsals in the U.S., only I'd say the directors here in Ghana are a little more autocratic and harsher to actors. My only explanation for this is that it's a style that's taught or passed down by professors. All in all though I had a great experience and met some of my best friends in Ghana through this production.

Below are some pics from the show. Enjoy!



 Jane telling Dr. Morton about his son


Jane fake crying  





 Morton trying to convince Hubert to be his son's father

on the window ledge




 some cross dressing





some karate to distract the sergeant 

 some more karate


 Hubert proposing to Jane. The end! 

Sunday 9 June 2013


The Mother Load: Making Sense of Minority, Misconceptions, and My Future

Final musings on my experience in Ghana


Now that I've been home for more than a week, I've had some time to reflect on my semester in Ghana.

Despite the "reverse culture shock" that my study abroad advisors warned me about before I left, I got used to home pretty quickly. I embraced the cooler temperatures, as well as the non-metric system. I took a hot shower and remembered I didn't have to bargain when buying a t-shirt. And much to my mom's surprise, I even remembered how to drive!

The one difference I really felt when I got home was a complete sense of ease in my environment. That sense is what I miss about home when I travel. I can walk in Annapolis and know exactly where to find a cup of coffee or public park, and where not to walk at night. By the end of my stay in Ghana, I could hop on a tro-tro and go wherever I wanted. I had learned to talk down taxi prices and how to find the good fruit at the market. But I never felt completely comfortable, and I've been trying to figure out why.

What I've realized is that before Ghana, I did not know how it felt to be a minority.

Being a white, middle-class American, I had never experienced minority status before. From the moment I got off the plane and stepped into the long immigration queue, I knew I stood out. Imagine walking down the street in New York carrying a goat. People would stare at you with interest and curiosity. That's what I felt like--at the market, walking down the street, at the beach, even sometimes in class--just about everywhere.

I got used to the stares. In fact, I found that most Ghanaians I met were eager to meet international students. They were friendly and inviting, and I made close friends that I'll have for the rest of my life.

However, there were times when standing out unsettled me. At the art market, people would grab me to get me to look at their shop. Taxi drivers tried to overcharge me because I was white, a sign to them that I was rich. Times like these made me wish that I could just blend in with the crowd as I do in the U.S.

I asked myself, is it different being a minority in the U.S.? My time in Ghana taught me it is. Although Ghana and the U.S. are connected in history through the Trans-Atlantic slave trade, Ghana has not experienced the same history of racial intolerance and Civil Rights movements that have shaped the U.S. I would never say that I now understand what it feels like to be a minority in the U.S. Although my white skin caused some Ghanaians to stare at me or try to cheat me, I was never barred from a job, nor subjected to racist comments. If anything, being a minority in Ghana showed me how privileged whites are in the rest of the world. I just wish more Americans could be as curious, open, and kind as I saw Ghanaians to be toward those who look and speak a little differently than they do.

Something else my experience as an outsider taught me was about misconceptions. I remember when my friends were leaving to study abroad in London and Amsterdam. People would tell them, "You're so lucky" or "Have fun!" When I told people I was spending five months in Ghana, some would say things like, "Good for you," as though I were going to Ghana for some noble reason. I try not to read too much into these differences, but I can't help noticing that people thought of my trip as a volunteer mission.

Last week, I chatted with a friend's grandmother about living in Ghana. She asked, "Weren't you scared?" We in the U.S. have a skewed perception of Africa. Our ideas have even been reinforced by the media, with its preponderance of stories about disease and violent coups. Rarely do we hear stories about high-achieving African students or strong African women with seats in government. At the same time, I also found that Ghanaians I met had skewed perceptions of the U.S. When a Ghanaian professor mentioned that he didn't want to go to the U.S. for fear of drive-by shootings, I felt the need to clear up a major misconception.

I didn't go to Ghana with the intent of saving orphans or changing traditions. I went because I was interested in Ghanaian culture and history. In hindsight, I would have liked to volunteer in Ghana. There were organizations like the orphanage that could have used my help. I learned a long time ago that the world is an unfair place. It doesn't seem right that some people have three houses while others have none. It's only natural to want to help, but there are different ways of doing this. I've been trying to find which way is right for me.

At the University of Ghana, I studied the arts: drumming, dance, and theatre. I had fantastic professors and talented students in my classes. Instead of a large, mirrored, air-conditioned studio at the University of Maryland, my classes were held mostly outside or in small rooms with tiled floors. But this didn't change the enthusiasm or motivation of students. What I realized was that the performing arts can happen anywhere--on a sidewalk, a soccer field, or in a village. So why can't the arts be used to help people? I think they have the power to develop communities, and I would like to be part of this.

I remember my first week in Ghana. I was hot, exhausted, and I was craving a good burger. I still couldn't believe I was in Africa. Why was I there? What did my presence there do for anyone? Do for me? As soon as I stopped worrying about these questions and started getting involved in theatre and traveling, I began learning. I saw children begging and learned about privilege. I saw people pay off policemen and learned about corruption. I crammed into tro-tros and learned about compassion. I went weeks without running water in my hostel and learned about resilience. I wish more Americans could travel to Africa, but I know this would be difficult. So for now I'll have to share my experiences the best way I can, through my writing and through the arts.

Nante yie! (walk well)

 Kokrobite beach
Last week in Ghana

Friday 3 May 2013

Bienvenue au Togo!

Last weekend I traveled to Togo with two USAC amies. We took a very long, bumpy ride through Friday traffic on a trotro (bus system here--only the buses are very crowded vans). After a tense hour getting our visas and crossing through the border into the Togo capital, Lomé, we felt like we had entered a different world. We noticed that people were a little more reserved and the streets were sandy and quiet. A very nice older Togolese man showed us to some hotels and I got to brush up on my very rusty French, as few people spoke much English. Our hotel was quaint and filled with French tourists. The best part of the whole trip was probably the food; pasta with meat sauce, baguette and jam, real REAL coffee and a delicious burger. Food that's hard to get in Ghana and that we've really missed!

 jazz music at our hotel

delicious breakfast the next day consisting of baguette, coffee, and freshly squeezed juice

view seaward from our hotel

at the Marché des Fetiches (Fetish Market)

animal, aminals, and more animals




stone that you put in your child's bath to make them stronger

only understood about half of what this man was saying, but the seed he holds is supposed to make your memory better if you rub it across your forehead








walk back to the border


home sweet home

Sunday 17 March 2013

My Acting Class

I realized that I haven't written much about any of my classes or campus life in general, so I'll get crackin' on that now. I'm mostly taking performing arts courses here--Drumming, Acting, and Traditional Ghanaian Dance. I'm also taking Twi (the local language) and History, Government, and Politics of Ghana. A lot of classes. In addition to this, I just started rehearsals for a theatre production. The difference between classes here and classes in the U.S. is that classes here only meet once or twice a week for two hours. So though this seems like a heavy course load, I'm in class for about the same amount of time as I am in the U.S.


So you want to know about my acting class...


I was really excited to take an acting class here and compare it to my acting classes at UMD. In some ways, this class is very similar to my acting classes at home, but occasionally something in the class surprises the bojangles out of me and reminds me of the differences between our cultures. 


The course is based in physical theatre--a theatre I'm pretty familiar with from home. The focus is on learning how to use the body to create works of art. We meet Mondays for two hours and do a lot of stretching and improvisation exercises. But on Tuesday mornings we meet at 7 and play sports. That's right--sports. Theatre kids playing sports. We've always talked about the similarities between theatre and sports at UMD, but we've never put them into practice. I'm really liking this aspect of the course though. So far we've played basketball, athletics (track), frisbee, and handball.

 

Sports are not the only aspect that make this course different. There is one little part that I'm finding hard to wrap my head around, and that is that we pray before and after class. Most Ghanaians I've met here are pretty devout Christians. But the fact that we pray in class still boggles my mind and honestly made me feel a little uncomfortable at first. At the beginning of the course, the professor explained that we can pray to whomever and whatever we want. But the students chosen to pray for us always recite Christian prayers (not surprising since most are Christian).

 

I asked a Ghanaian friend about any laws separating church and state in Ghana and he laughed! He explained that in public education they are supposed to be separate--teachers cannot force their religious beliefs on students. But this does not mean that religion is not apparent in school. It is such a big part of the culture, so it's not strange to most of my Ghanaian classmates when we pray in class. But I can't help but think about what an outrage this would cause in the U.S...praying in class just wouldn't fly. Apart from praying, there is no other mention of religion in class. It doesn't really bother me anymore--In fact, everyone here has been very accepting of different beliefs. A girl at the market asked me if I went to church this morning. When I replied, "no," she gave me a coy smile and said, "me either."




Monday 4 March 2013

Monkeys, Mountains and Mayhem

The USAC group went to the Volta Region last weekend, home of a monkey sanctuary, mountains, and a huge waterfall. 

[photos by Celeste M.]


mmm banana and baby

 friendliest monkey

parasite tree

 should have taken this sign seriously...

 almost there!

 Finally at the top! Victory was bittersweet--the view was incredible but we were attacked by tiny nats that sometimes bit and got stuck in our sweat. yuck!


 Victory Sit

 Our tour guide trying to find some shade

 

 USAC group!

Wli Falls

 very cute baby at ze waterfall

 Celeste (the photographer) et moi


Ms. baboon

The Volta!!